Expeditions
Expedition Stories
Stories from more than a decade of climbing across the world’s highest mountains.
8,850m · Nepal
Everest
Since 2012, I have returned to Everest year after year, taking part in more than 15 expeditions and reaching the summit nine times—most via the South Col route, and once through the direct North Face via the historic Hornbein Couloir. Every summit has been special and carries its own meaning. But the Hornbein holds a particularly deep place in my heart. After three attempts, I was fortunate to finally climb it in the autumn of 2025. Reaching the summit was the culmination of years of persistence, patience, and learning. Everest has taught me about judgment, safety, resilience, humility, and respect. I have witnessed success and loss, faced moments that tested my limits, and returned with a deeper appreciation for life. I feel fortunate to have been welcomed by Chomolungma again and again. With the blessings of Miyolangsangma, I have been fortunate to return safely, carrying home lessons and memories that extend far beyond the mountain.
8,611m · Pakistan
K2
My first K2 summit came on July 28, 2022, climbing independently via the Abruzzi Spur. I moved from Base Camp to Japanese Camp 2, then from Camp 2 to the summit and all the way back to Base Camp in a single push. Exactly two years later, on July 28, 2024, I stood on the summit of K2 again, this time working behind the camera and documenting a client’s journey to the top.
8,516m · Nepal
Lhotse
Sharing much of its journey with Everest before separating high on the mountain, Lhotse has a character entirely its own. I reached the summit of Lhotse late afternoon around 3pm on May 13,2018 under challenging conditions.Much of the existing fixed rope was buried beneath the snow, leaving us to fix a new line for ourselves as we climbed.
8,163m · Nepal
Manaslu
Manaslu has been a mountain I've returned to many times, with five simmits in total. My first summit of Manaslu was without supplemental oxygen, at a time when most expeditions considered the lower fore-summit the end of the climb. In fall 2021, a route was opened to thee mountain's higher, true summit. That season, whioe documenting Nims Dai's story on Manaslu ,I had the opportunity to continue to the ture summit myself. I returned again in 2022,documenting Jim Morrison and Hilaree Nelson's Manaslu Ski project and reached the true summit for the second time.
8,047m · Karakoram,Pakistan
Broad Peak
Broad peak was my first mountain in the Karakoram beyond Himalayas. I was on a assignment with The North Face to document Dawa Yangzum Sherpa while also making the climb myslef. Stepping outside the Himalayas into the vast and rugged landscape of the Karakoram was a completely new experience and a new chapter for me, bringing together climbing and high-altitude filmmaking in an entirely different mountain range.
8126m · Pakistan
Nanga Parbat
After summiting Broad Peak and K2 in July, I headed to Nanga Parbat with the Imagine Nepal team, arriving late in the season in August as the only team on the mountain. We began on the normal route toward the Kinshofer Wall, fixing our own lines. Extremely dry conditions and constant rockfall eventually forced us to change plans and explore a different line on the Diamir Face. The expedition came to an end when a large avalanche swept away much of our equipment, including tents and oxygen, leaving us no safe option but to turn back. There was no summit, but climbing two different lines on one of the world’s toughest 8,000-metre mountains made Nanga Parbat another unforgettable experience in the Karakoram.
6,856m · Nepal
Ama Dablam
Rising just above my hometown of Phortse, Ama Dablam has always held a special place in my heart and remains one of my favorite climbs in the Himalayas. I first stood on its summit in 2016, an experience that gave me a deeper appreciation for the mountain’s beauty, character, and technical challenges. Since then, Ama Dablam has continued to be a part of my journey in different ways. I have returned several times to help other climbers pursue and achieve their own goals on the mountain. More recently, I have also had the opportunity to experience Ama Dablam through my camera, documenting expeditions and sharing the mountain from a different perspective. For me, Ama Dablam is more than a beautiful peak above the Khumbu. It is a mountain that has been part of my growth as a climber, a mentor, and a storyteller—and one I feel fortunate to have so close to home.
5800m · Khumbu,Nepal.
LUZA PEAK
In 2020, the pandemic brought climbing and tourism in Nepal to a standstill. With the Khumbu unusually quiet, two fellow Sherpa climbers from Phortse and I decided to climb for a different reason. We wanted to share a simple message: Sherpas don’t only climb to help others reach summits. We climb because we love the mountains, because climbing is part of who we are. Together, we set out in winter to attempt Luza Peak, then one of Nepal’s unclimbed peaks, and completed its first winter ascent. More than reaching the summit, our purpose was to encourage a younger generation of Sherpa climbers to explore their own possibilities in the mountains, to climb for themselves, and to carry that spirit forward.
2025
Direct North Face
A Historic Ascent
Everest Direct North Face via the Hornbein Couloir
On October 15, 2025, I reached the summit of Everest via the Direct North Face through the historic Hornbein Couloir, one of the mountain's most rarely climbed routes.
First climbed in 1963, the route had seen very few successful ascents in the decades that followed. Before our expedition, only five climbers had reached the summit this way. Our team of twelve added another twelve, bringing the total to just seventeen climbers to date.
For me, it was the culmination of three expeditions, years of preparation, and a journey through one of Everest's most historic and rarely repeated lines.
- ◷ 15 Oct 2025
- ▲ 8,848.86 m Summit
- ✦ Hornbein Couloir
- ⚑ Direct North Face
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